Recently, news broke that Taco Daddy owners John and Morgan Nealon would completely switch their next door concept in The Lila Rose to Cugine’s Italian, focusing on a sit-down, upscale Italian experience.

If The Lila Rose—which closed for good on May 8—was Taco Daddy’s only slight alter ego, Cugine’s is its polar opposite. Think NYC speakeasy vibes—when you walk in, there’s a mini flower shop “front”—complete with dim lighting, antique chandeliers, and a nice touch in a tribute wall of notable area chefs the Nealon’s are friends with and inspired by before you hit the restroom.

For John, it’s not only the Sinatra you’ll likely hear through the speakers that’s meant to bring you a bit back in time, but also the overall experience, including the food and Cugine’s focus on classic cocktails, even if there are a few small liberties taken. “Fortina (where John was one of the founders) ushered the way for casual Italian in this area, and Roberta’s really sort of originated it way back when, and that’s great,” John says. “I wanna bring back the sit down upscale Italian restaurant.”