What are you doing on Saturday morning at 10 a.m.? If you’re tuned into the Japanese cuisine scene in New Haven, we know where we’ll find you: Standing in line to be one of the first to experience The Loop, a brand-new marketplace, food court, and kitchen by the enlightened crew that brought us Hashiroku Shokudo & Sake Bar, and Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas. CT Bites was lucky enough to get a private preview, and we’re here to tell you: The Loop is about to revolutionize the way we eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
To catch you up: Yuta Kamori was a stranger to New Haven when he opened the first Hachiroku on Orange Street in 2022. But soon, very soon – in spite of not even a sign out front -- he had a passionate fan base and, much to his surprise, an outpouring of support from local chefs and restaurateurs. “I walked in cold,” he recalls, but found “good people here – people who spread the word.” By 2023 he had premiered the second Hachiroku, a spare, elegant sushi bar on State Street, which opened to great acclaim and which, like his first place, quickly became a statewide favorite.
Moby Dick’s needs your help. The small-but-mighty bar/restaurant, which is quickly gaining fame as one of West Haven’s hottest spots, is trying to hit the one million mark by the end of 2024: that is, 1,000,000 oysters shucked and supped. So far this year Moby’s has served about 150,000, each with a squeeze of lemon, a bit of cocktail sauce, a drizzle of mignonette, and lots of fun.
Where else but Moby’s would you find food and drink specials every day of the week, including an $8 burger platter on Mondays and, on Wednesdays, a solo lobster roll with brown butter on a properly grilled hot dog bun, plus fries on the side, for $18? Tuesdays there are raw bar bargains, while a full sushi bar is featured on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. It’s no wonder that Moby Dick’s has racked up “best-of” awards, including “Best Seafood” by the Chamber of Commerce, since opening in 2022.
The quiche Lorraine was fluffy, flaky, and mile-high, served with a crunchy wedge salad on the side. Crab Cakes Benedict glistened alongside seasoned home fries, while tender slices of smoked salmon with cream cheese and capers on a bagel made the New York transplants at our table nod with approval. Mimosas and Bloody Marys appeared and disappeared, as did the occasional espresso martini; our server was on-the-spot and full of wit.
Were we at a boutique hotel, a swanky resort, or a storied antique tavern? No: our delightful Sunday brunch, which easily stretched out into a two-hour party, was at 168 York Street, a laid-back gay bar on the lower level of a brownstone in downtown New Haven. The 30-seat dining room is simple and somewhat bare-bones, and the prices are equally modest: all the entrees on the brunch menu are just $12. Jumbo omelettes with veggies and meats of your choice? $12. French toast, Birds in a Nest (just like Mom used to make), even steak and eggs? Each dish only $12. Miraculous but true, and all prepared by Eddie Swanson, who has been the man behind the pan at 168 York Street for 27 years. Eddie has always managed to create big flavors in a tiny kitchen – seriously, it measures 10 by 16 feet -- with generous portions and appealing plating (orange slices are always a plus).
It started with an email and ended with wedges of cake so creamy and fluffy we swore they were slices of Cloud Nine. Or perhaps Nuvola Nove.
The note was from Daniela Petrucelli, offering a brief history of her family’s restaurant, La Scogliera in Shelton. She explained that her parents, Carmelo and Carmelina Maione, opened the original restaurant in Bridgeport 46 years ago. In the early days, Daniela and her family, including sisters Francesca, Maria, and Diana, lived above the 150-seat eatery. “We would go downstairs to go to work, upstairs to go to bed,” she recalls. The restaurant became something of a hot spot, with a menu of hearty Italian-American dishes, fresh fish, and eventually, live music. Even the famously picky New York Times critic Mark Bittman liked it, rating it “Very Good” in 2003.
What are those funsters over at Ordinary up to now? I’ll give you a clue: It is a new fan-boy treatment, and it involves candlesticks, 1940s-style cocktails, Mrs. Peacock, ropes, a mysterious library, lead pipes, and a real-time crime-cracking challenge.
Ordinary, a modern cocktail bar and restaurant housed in antique oak-paneled splendor, has become known for periodically revamping its decor and its menu, based on a favorite theme. Over the years the place has been temporarily staged as a vintage circus, an homage to Twin Peaks, and, most recently, the films of Wes Anderson, complete with “Moonrise Kingdom”-tented tables and a “Life Aquatic”-decorated men’s room. The pop-ups stay put for months – sometimes a few, sometimes several.
Are you suffering from restaurant sticker shock? Did you, on your last outing to a decent eatery, think about having the steak, then found out it cost $74 and ordered the $46 roasted chicken instead, and washed it down with the cheapest wine on the list at $18 a glass, which is more than you usually pay for an entire bottle at the corner packy?
Happy hour is here to help. While not as grand as a multi-course dinner-dinner, happy hour is a wonderful eating-out alternative, offering yummy fun in great locations for not much loot. You just have to get used to, you know, eating (and drinking) on, um, the early side.
The new Goodfellas is a knockout. At a soft opening for family and friends on April 19, Chef Gerry Iannaccone and partner Andrea Coppola showed off the dramatically reimagined and rebranded restaurant, now known as Encore by Goodfellas. New Haveners have been watching as the building at State and Trumbull slowly shifted shape; what was once an open-air patio on the roof became capped and clad, creating a sudden second floor. New signage went up, casting a golden neon glow. But none of us could have fathomed what was going on inside the building.
