The first time I read about Dîner en Blanc, I was floored, mystified, envious even. Wait, what is this and where has it been all my life? Everyone dresses in white, carries all their accoutrement like tables, chairs, and picnic baskets yet they don’t know where they are dining? Let me in. It took a few years of watching from the sidelines before I threw myself into the mix, which was after the pandemic; now I’m hooked.
Dîner en Blanc is coming to New Haven this Fall, on September 14th, 2024.
Le Diner en Blanc is so much more than an event! It’s a unique cultural movement that empowers friends of friends to gather and celebrate their shared passions for life, food, fashion, and community, year after year, with a pinch of mystery and large serving of spontaneity.
Okay, let’s be honest. When a foodie hears Michelin star, we can’t help but take notice. There’s a reason the ding and shine of that star draws attention. It means someone’s talents have not only been noticed, but they have consistently delivered The Best of what they do. And that is why making a special trip to Athithi Indian in Wilton was a must for me, and I now declare, a must for you. This new gem opened in the fall and is led by the first Indian Chef to receive a Michelin Star (now two) Chef Hemant Mathur.
I will never call myself an expert of any culinary realm or culture—even though I truly geek out over a few–I can say Indian food continuously has me under a spell. I also never seem to have an Off switch with it either, but that is something I rarely regret. There is just something about the combination of spicy, warm, floral, and earthy aromas and flavors that hit more intensely than other cuisines that I can rarely shake. Even before I continue, I promise, if you are a fan of this cuisine in the slightest, make a reservation; you will be under the spell too.
The Michelin Guide on Chef Mathur opens with, “If there’s a creative force behind New York’s trending Indian Restaurant scene, it’s Hemant Mathur.” Now a few years later, with the experience of six restaurants to his name, Connecticut diners get to experience some of that magical force with Athithi in Wilton.
The “Bites” family is growing with the new to Instagram @HudVbites. The account will serve as a launchpad for deeper coverage in the Hudson Valley, NY area, and is spearheaded by CTbites writer, Kristin L. Wolfe. @HudVbites will join @MIAbites and @CTBites.
After falling in love with the Hudson Valley—writer/professor Kristin L. Wolfe is taking what CTbites has done for the culinary world of CT and applying it to her new hometown. With countless farms, orchards, markets, restaurants, distilleries, breweries, bakeries, and confectioners Wolfe’s goal at @HudVbites is to replicate the bold cheerleading support CTbites has had for its community. From areas like Beacon and New Paltz, to Kingston and Rhinebeck, to Hudson, Woodstock, and so many more, the Hudson Valley has no shortage of historic spots and brand new locations to explore. @HudVbites will bring readers and foodies the inside stories on chefs and their inspirations; details on craft and technique; info on grand openings and collaborations, and much much more. Like, Follow, and Please Stay Tuned.
When your editor says “it’s one of the best Japanese spots I’ve ever been to,” you quickly look at your calendar and figure out how to get there. Folks: You too, have to get there.
Most of us can’t claim to be experts in Japanese cuisine and yet those of us who spend our days dreaming about food, know good food; we know passion when we see it, and we know when a chef’s world revolves around creating with the best ingredients and when those ingredients are treated with the utmost respect. Not only was our time at Hachiroku unforgettable with every sense turned up a notch, but before we exited the building, we were dreaming of our next visit.
The group behind Hachiroku Shokudo & Sake bar, which opened in May, are no newcomers to the food business. Owners Yuta Kamori and his wife Sanae, along with partners Gen Hashimoto and Hiroyuki Fuji Yuta started several years ago with Brooklyn Ramen, then branched out to a successful bento box business and Japanese sushi stores tied to the Maruichi grocery establishment throughout CT and Boston. According to our server extraordinaire, Tim Bang, “their bento business really blossomed during the pandemic which gave them the opportunity to open Hachiroku with Chef Yutaka here in New Haven.”
Labor Day might be over, but grilling is still very much in the daily DNA over at Bank & Bridge. Their signature “Get’Cha Face Dirty” burgers created by Chef Josh Ulmer who has trained in places like Madison Square Garden and Nolo in New Haven, are worth the mess they make. Seriously, you need a napkin for every bite, but it’s a noble mess if ever there was one! These beefy mounds are no joke.
Bank & Bridge celebrated one year on the map in June and (in my book) have added to the magical scene that has recently made Mystic a culinary darling. Maybe it is something in the water, but this small but mighty seaport just knows food. And, although many may land in the pub for their tremendous line up of brews, nurtured by Head Brewer Jason Riggs, there is hardly a better match (even coming from a self-professed “beer sipper”) than a good juicy burger and brew.
Well, Connecticut. Your gal Emily Mingrone did it again. The one so rightly deemed our latest Chef of the Year has now brought you seaside with Fair Haven Oyster Company along the Quinnipiac River. She gives us cozy date nights with Tavern on State; she brings us into the kitchen with Provisions on State, and is now taking us to the water.
Barely two weeks old, her latest venture with business partner and libation genius Shane McGowan is satisfying CT gourmands just in time for summer and for that much-longed-for taste of fresh seafood and just-plucked-from-the-garden veggies.
Many might be surprised to know, but the idea for Fair Haven was brewing well before her award-winning spot Tavern on State came to be. “I’ve been in Connecticut my whole life,” says Mingrone, “so summer lobster rolls, steamers and oysters are something I look forward to every year. [Even though] seafood spots dot the shoreline, there’s really nowhere in New Haven like Fair Haven. With its small, “stop in and enjoy” atmosphere, there’s nothing grandiose or overwhelming about the location or the menu (let alone dear Chef Mingrone, tbh) “I always had this idea in the back of my mind, to create an elevated New England seafood experience.”
How does Mystic do it? In such a small area, there’s a steady stream of creativity and passion, delectable food, and now, with The Port of Call, there’s a reason it has become my home away from home.
Dripping with history, the new two-in-one stop, is a complete experience. With a friendly Welcome from manager Nancy Hankins, your eyes, mind, and belly (not necessarily in that order), will be lit up and spun into a whir of pleasure when learning about the location’s past, the collaborations forged, not to mention the top notch drink and food offerings. Notice, I said drink then food….
The “Million Miles” Bar is front and center as you walk through the stately, yet otherwise, unassuming exterior. That’s because the drinks, or shall I say beverage program, is the first star on stage. Although we often enter a restaurant hungry, we are being not-so gently, happily hypnotized first by the drinks that will then be paired by knock-out plates honoring global ports. We’ve been conditioned to think about the food before deciding what drink to pair with it; The Port of Call is asking us to think in reverse: “Wet” your palates first, sailors. Helmed by Jade Ayala (who also rocks the booze next door at Oyster Club) and Sebastian Guerrero (of NYC’s Dante and Mother of Pearl), your drink will come with a “generous pour,” as my feller put it, and a side tale about the area’s notorious seafaring past.
Gina Luari is a force to be reckoned with. Young, driven, and armed with a clear vision and talented staff, at just 30 years old, she has created an experience in Place 2 Be that should be on everyone’s To Do list. It is loud, vibrant, and flashy, and the food gives bigger is better a run for its money. Cue Chef Xavier Santiago, also a force in CT’s restaurant scene; he has recently taken over as Executive Chef of the wildly popular, rapidly growing phenomenon.With wall to wall bottles of Veuve Clicquot and plates of sweet and savory treats like mini-mountains, Place 2 Be oozes pleasure party. When Boss Lady (Stephanie Webster) and I completed our experience, we were most certainly in a delicious daze from the massive treats, drinks, and sensory overload.
It makes sense that the name of this now one-year old, bright spot in New Haven means FIREWORK. Its innovative, delicious dishes are bold and vibrant and the space pops out like none other. I typically prefer a dimly lit space when eating out and yet Pataka’s electrifying, glowing design, produced in part by Box 8 Creative, will mesmerize you and make you a believer; this fast casual, one-of-a-kind, veggie Indian experience, could not be any other way. It’s as if it is Diwali everyday. In addition to being a part of his father’s restaurant Sitar (in New Haven since 2006), Harry Singh has already created a local institution with House of Naan under his belt since 2016; so, knowing the demands and demographic of New Haven, a serious pocket of CT’s culinary creativity, was a given.
I got to meet Chef Beca Tuinei last year after trying her wonderful creations for Nala’s Kitchen. Being apprehensive to try dishes from organizations promoted as “healthy food services,” fearing a massive pile of black containers filled with dry, bland chicken and broccoli, I was truly surprised and impressed. For those diving into more measured, health conscious, and ingredient-focussed food service, Nala’s Kitchen will blow you away with flavor. Believe me, I’m still a fan of meals like chicken and broccoli, but you can have these high-protein, low calorie, diet-forward products AND STILL HAVE FLAVOR! Chef Beca will amp it up with a creative use of spices and sauces without piling on the extra calories. It is a fine line to walk but she does it so well. Not only does she do it well, but her talent has landed her a position with the WNBA, now responsible for feeding the hungry athletes of the Connecticut Sun!
Have you strolled down Farmington Avenue lately? West Hartford is BAAAACK! And, Arugula Bistro is now all dressed up and ready to party. The colorful block mural and beautiful lavender plants along the front of the restaurant are just two visual signs that Arugula is awaiting your arrival. Back open this summer after some much needed reno, your spirit and belly will be delighted by the changes. Like many restaurants, some time closed during the pandemic was spent fixing to-do list projects. What went from much needed new flooring to some equipment and furniture overhauls, became the redo Chef Christiane Gehami and Chef Michael Kask had always wanted it to be. The pair have run Arugula together for twenty-five years and they’ve worked hard to evolve; behind them, in long-time starring roles on the team are also Steve Reynolds and Shari Warbelow.
onnecticut is full of trailblazing women, particularly in the culinary world. Our ongoing column, “It’s A Woman’s World” is devoted to CT female influencers who’ve forged their own paths, often in food-related fields long dominated by men.
Whether farming the land, bringing healthy food to the masses, feeding an entrepreneurial spirit, or injecting feminism with food, these groundbreaking ladies have set a new definition of women’s work, creating new paths, and setting examples for those who follow
It’s impossible to leave Mystic without falling in love. From the adorable hotels and shops, to the views along the water, the drawbridge, and THE FOOD, you will undoubtedly leave it with a scrapbook (even a virtual one) of memories. And, for such a small town, Mystic is brimming with incredible places to eat. One of the best is at Oyster Club with Chef Renee Touponce at the helm. I’ve had numerous dishes by her over the last year, and it's just never enough. Every plate is full of flavor, yet light. For me, they conjure summer sea breezes with a dash of cozy home dinner.
Are you ready to carb out on THE MOST tremendous bites of bready goodness your lips have savored? Small State Provisions in West Hartford’s GastroPark has finally opened.
Owner, and head baker Kevin Masse has been incredibly patient this last year waiting to open his storefront bakery. Despite it being a difficult time for any industry, Masse’s fan base has multiplied; and, to see him finally open the doors to his beautiful brick and mortar was a pretty emotional moment. As he opened the doors for the first time on Saturday, July 3, he grabbed his camera to capture the smiles and cheers in the line as it wrapped around the door in the parking lot of the GastroPark, now THE place to “Gather and Graze” in WeHa. Small State Provisions’ goodies were sold out in 45 minutes!
What is it about Latin food that is just so ga’damn sexy? Is it the aura surrounding it, the parade of flavors, the colors, the collision of land and sea on the plate? Who the heck knows? Well, Pacifico in New Haven does. And that’s because beloved Chef Rafael Palomino and partner Moe Gad know a thing or two about the world they are serving up. Since 2004, Pacifico has tapped into the community with a vibe all its own, and a corner of town just made for fun, flavor, and people watching! And, with Covid restrictions loosening, yet safety measures still in place, their outside dining area will be THE PLACE TO BE this summer.
Look. I’m a lover not a fighter. So, when it comes to Pizza-in-Connecticut politics, I usually stand on this side of the pie. HOWEVER, I will always have an opinion. Here’s what I’ve concluded thus far: like coffee shops that seem to be on every corner, there’s always room for another slice. And, as Matt Stanczak, the mastermind and magic wand wielder behind Good Old Days Pizza agrees, as long as each shop is doing a little something different...then why not!?
So, let’s get our fric-on, shall we?
Talk about doing a little something different, the frico on Good Old Days’ “Detroit-Inspired” classic squares are such tasty, drool-worthy, dream-inducing corners of heaven. I’m not kidding. I think I’d go over and over again just to pick frico off everyone’s pie. Ok, maybe not amidst a pandemic, but you get what I mean. Salty, crispy and chewy brown bites of cheese that are like the edges of nonna’s lasagna. If that’s not all, the thick red sauce is bright, and the dough looks like it should be dense and heavy, but it’s not.
From what was once considered the most dangerous water park--Action Park in Vernon, NJ--to a waterway that is far less risky, way more inviting, and definitely has a more delicious restaurant, Chef Standridge knows a thing or two about pivoting throughout his career. His dossier is full and eclectic, with a range of bartending and cooking experiences in New Jersey, Manhattan, Houston, and back to New York City working with the legendary Joël Robuchon, and earning two Michelin stars.
Like the Seinfeld show leaving on a high note, Standridge left the masses in New York and settled in the historic, tourist town of Mystic with his family two years ago. And, as he and his wife were starting a family, the timing just felt right. The ball was rolling to open The Shipwright’s Daughterin the stunning, newly revamped hotelThe Whaler’s Inn at the top of last spring, then boom, you guessed it: Pandemic. So, having to pivot even before starting, his ingenuity was put to the test. And yet now, after watching him for the better part of two days, I’m not surprised he did it. Frankly, he didn’t just do it and make it work; the restaurant is booming and is OUTSTANDING. From the ambiance and an inventive menu, to stellar service and a collaborative sensibility, this restaurant, this chef, this place, must be on every list of To Dos for Mystic, for dining, and for Connecticut.
“It was like having a sparkler in your mouth,” says beloved Connecticut Chef Jeff Taibe on his early food experiences in Singapore.
Many of us regular CT diners are familiar with his passion and talent for cooking, and his following is testament enough to know that his food….well, sings. There’s even been pomp and accolades from the big whigs, and “Best Ofs,” and yet, he’s been holding out on us. Joking aside, he has flung his flair for Southeast Asian cuisine our way for some time through Kawa Ni, in Westport and, more recently at the original Taproot, and, even more recently, from the On the Fly food truck. BUT, after twenty years-ish, he’s ready to pull out all the stops and bring us his love affair with Singapore on a plate, every single day. Well, the days they are open.
Having spent time in Singapore first as a teen baseball player, then again as a serious cook, you can imagine how that “sparkler” left a lasting impression. Chef Taibe says, he just had to have that depth of flavor on the new menu. “I remember the Miang Kum (which is actually Thai); or The Mee Goreng that he’d have three times a week for lunch. He’d have dosa and chai tea most mornings in Little India or the chicken murtabak, “at 2 in the morning, while a bit tipsy; it woke me right up with how perfect of a bite of food it was.”
Just how many creative things have you accomplished or experienced this year? So you’ve become a wizard of Zoom, turned your living room into Studio 54, or maybe you’ve even become TikTok famous for your golden sourdough while being an accountant in your pajamas.
Good for you.
You have likely NOT, however, headed out your front door to the gorgeous doors of The Goodwin Hotel in Hartford to luxuriate in an evening of mystery over a dinner created by the talented, beloved Connecticut chef Tyler Anderson. Along with TheaterWorks and weHartford, you can now, in a VERY safe, nearly contactless manner, enjoy a 2-3 hour night out. Take a deep dive into clues and mystery in your own room, and marvel in a scrumptious three-course meal. All paying homage to Hartford, Wall Street financier J.P. Morgan, and the late 19th century as it comes back to life today.
As of February 1, fans of Nala’s Kitchen will be able to get some of their delicious, wholesome meals at various Noble Convenience Stores across Connecticut. Sure, You can order their meals online whenever you’d like, but what a radical shift for your gas and go stops! Imagine going to a convenience store, after pumping gas, and, instead of coming out with candy, soda, and some unidentifiable colorful snack you’d likely feel guilty and sick over twenty minutes later, you could leave your local Noble’s munching on something that will be both healthy and gaa’damn delicious.
Walking along Newtown’s Main Street has always felt like stepping back in time. From dark painted Colonials with bright colored doors to a classic, yellow Federal house or the more decorative Queen Anne, you know every home has a story and the spirits of the town’s past are within reach. And, like the best pieces of historical fiction,Marigold’s on Main gives us a sense of two worlds. There’s something so exhilarating about being inside a place that has been revived from the past. Time stands still in the middle of yesterday and today. The space feels at once old and new; and, although there are thoughtful nods to another time on the menu, it is as inventive and fresh as you’d hope a new place would be. Not to mention, with Chef Clark Neugold at the helm, you know as worlds collide, he’ll still invent something that stands on its own.
Run by Chef Neugold and his wife Kate, of Foundry Kitchen & Tavern, and barely a mile down the road in Sandy Hook (see CTbites Feb 2019 for info), they know a thing or two or three about breathing new life into an old space. And, despite the setbacks Covid has undoubtedly thrust upon the industry, Marygold’s is off to a successful start. Alongside Chef Neugold, Derek Kustanbauter as Chef de Cuisine, and Steve Roth as Sous Chef, the team has brought forth a menu Connecticut diners will surely want to try.
