The Luke Brasserie Opens in Downtown New Haven with Beautiful Fine Dining

Walking into The Luke Brasserie in downtown New Haven, it’s apparent that this isn’t your average restaurant. The soaring space exudes grandeur, boasting ornate coffered ceilings, mosaic tile floors, and a wraparound mezzanine flanked by double-height Ionic columns. Impeccably prepared Mediterranean fare is served in oversized carved crystal bowls and wide-rimmed fluted plates. Deep red leather banquettes beckon, warmed by chandeliers and flickering candles.

“I fell in love with the space when I first saw it over a decade ago, and I wanted to do it justice,” says Executive Chef Vincent Chirico, a New York City culinary veteran with three previous restaurants under his belt. Like many of us, Chirico left the city during the height of Covid and was househunting in Connecticut when he happened to reconnect with the owner of the historic Taft Building in New Haven, who was a patron of his Upper West Side restaurant Vai. Years after encountering the space the first time, Chirico found himself weighing the opportunity to open a restaurant there. The timing felt like fate, and thus The Luke was born. 

Appearances aside, The Luke is not a traditional fine dining establishment, though Chirico’s stated goal is “to create positive human connections through world class dining.” Rather, surprises abound in a nod to the Brooklyn-born chef’s rebellious streak, which dates back to his pre-teen years. Rather than taking over the family butchery business as his Italian father hoped, a determined 14 year old Chirico set his sights on the most renowned kitchens across the globe. “I knew I wanted to cook as a kid, and I went after it,” he recounts. After working under industry titans such as Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Marcus Samuellson, and Stephen Starr, one might expect that at The Luke, he would follow in the well-worn culinary and service footsteps of his successful mentors. But Chirico likes to do things differently.

The first surprise at The Luke is the structure of the menu itself: “We don’t do appetizers and entrees here,” Chirico declares. Instead, the small menu of about a dozen dishes is divided into sections by feel: “fresh”, “indulgent” and “decadent” are the categories diners can choose from, translating to smaller and lighter to larger, heavier plates. Everything is meant to be shared.

When it comes to his food, Chirico “present[s] recognizable items, but every dish has a unique twist,” he states. For example, a tower of hamachi tartare, ubiquitous across menus these days, teeters above a generous heap of avocado; but the fish is garnished with the unusual choices of floral African blue basil, fresh baby radishes and their leaves, and a clear preserved ginger sauce. In another twist, the hamachi is half chopped and half thickly sliced, allowing the fish’s flavor and texture to shine while ensuring the ingredients can be mixed into integrated bites. 

Each plate at The Luke is thoughtfully composed, based on an ever changing roster of seasonally available ingredients. In another standout dish, crisp-tender white asparagus, resting on a luxurious white truffle and mustard sauce, is topped with a fluffy carpet of grated young pecorino and a crunch of freshly cracked black pepper. “I use an emulsion here because it clings to the asparagus, rather than a vinaigrette, which slides right off,” Chirico explains. “The dressing needs to stick.” 

Chirico is also a fan of dramatic presentation, which makes sense given his original attraction to the space. Comforting polenta, replete with royal trumpet mushrooms and a blanket of freshly shaved Burgundy truffle, enshrines a runny poached egg, whose yolk diners must unearth and then pop before mixing the whole dish together to properly consume its sumptuous end result. On another plate, voluptuous slabs of raw yellowfin tuna nearly explode in a deafening sizzle when hot brown butter poured tableside collides with the cold fish and white miso herb sauce in a feat of culinary pyrotechnics. 

In contrast, the service at The Luke is drama-free. Chirico prides himself on the connection he makes to his guests, and he expects his kitchen team to do the same. “Our chefs run 98% of the food to the tables,” he says, describing his tableside approach. But not everyone makes the cut: “If you’re not likable, stay in the kitchen,” he deadpans. Additionally, thoughtful touches like freshly-baked bread (changing daily) and a rotating complimentary dessert make patrons feel special. 

Chirico’s strategy of “combining hospitality and service with excellent food and excellent product” is paying off. “People come with the most unbelievable energy and reviews,” he elaborates. “They thank me for being in New Haven.” His main clientele are international Yale students and their families, but it should be noted that the restaurant is directly across the street from the College Street Music Hall, perfect for a pre-show dinner. 

Once a month on the weekends, Chirico hosts cooking classes in the restaurant’s kitchen. For $150 per person (and a minimum of six to participate), he creates a custom menu and a five to six hour experience in which he teaches repeatable skills like animal and fish butchery. Students also receive an apron as a souvenir. Chirico’s dream is to turn the restaurant’s mezzanine kitchen into a dedicated space for cooking classes, but for now demand is outpacing supply.  

Fully invested in his new Connecticut life, Chirico is currently eyeing a waterfront Norwalk space for a tasting menu experience in the vein of his restaurant Coarse, NYC. He’s a welcome addition to our local dining scene, and we can’t wait to see what other surprises he’s hiding up his sleeve.

The Luke Brasserie 261 College St, New Haven

@lukebrasserie