L’escale Celebrates its 20th Anniversary on Greenwich's Waterfront

The iconic Greenwich restaurant known for its exceptional cuisine and timeless charm, is commemorating its 20th Anniversary this year, marking two decades of culinary excellence and cherished memories.

Located at the Delamar Greenwich Harbor Hotel and founded in 2003, L’escale boasts an award-winning menu and extraordinary wine program. The restaurant’s stunning setting, décor and cuisine instantly transport you to the Cote d’Azur, if only temporarily (and without the need to step on a plane!) The picturesque setting conjures images of an Auguste Renoir painting of diners lunching au dehors, en plain air, and Edith Piaf serenading in the distance. The restaurant sits above the docks on the harbor with the stunning picnic boats and yachts below. L’escale represents a quiet, understated luxury, and whether it’s caviar or a juicy burger you’re craving, you’ll find these items and many more on the menu. 

Photo courtesy of www.homelifeandstyle.com

A couple of weeks ago I sat down with Chef Frederic Kieffer and Director of Operations, David Fletcher, to talk about the restaurant’s successful past and how it plans to position itself moving forward. Twenty years ago the restaurant was described as progressive having adapted the “farm to fork” philosophy which was a relatively novel concept. Today Chef Kieffer prefers to use the term “sustainable.” While the restaurant’s menu is still seasonal, sourcing locally when appropriate. Kieffer’s creative vision is often the inspiration behind some of the menu’s most exquisite dishes and sometimes something special comes around that isn’t local, or even available in the US. 

As we move forward and look ahead to the next 20 years Kieffer shared his desire for what he called a better L’escale, always striving to offer the very best. “L’escale is a great restaurant that serves great food without being fussy yet offering an upscale fare and esthetic… We have welcomed every guest in our home and wanted to ensure that they have the best possible experience with us,” he continued. “We have had our ups and downs over the years like any restaurant, but we have always reverted to the fact that we must provide for our guests. As for the future, we are working to inspire the next generation of professionals and hopefully pass on the passion for the industry that has fueled us day after day so L'escale can continue to be a special place in our guests' hearts and in the community.” 

Kieffer opened the restaurant, left briefly, and is now back at the helm and looking forward to seeing what the next 20 years will bring. “I am very proud of the loyalty we’ve been able to maintain at L’escale between our staff and our clientele.” He said. “We have an incredible team, most of which have been with us for 10+ years and we are blessed that so many of our guests have supported L'escale for so many years. We believe in the fundamentals of the hospitality business.” 

Diners may or may not have noticed a trimmed down menu. Kieffer shared that he had been wanting to do this for a while so that he could direct his focus on fresher cuisine, but customers always worried that their favorite dishes were going to be taken away. When the Pandemic hit and Kieffer and his team had to shift gears he had no choice but to scale the menu back a bit.  The efforts became two-fold; the restaurant needed to figure out how to not just stay open, but to do so successfully and in such a way where he could cater to what his customers really wanted. 

Not wanting to disappoint his customers, Kieffer made sure that the classic fan favorites such as the Tuna and Beef Tartare, Bouillabaisse, Chicken Paillard, Hangar Steak au Poivre, L’escale Bacon Burger and (to my sheer delight) the Salad Niçoise remained on the menu. “Plats du Jour”  grace the menu daily, and on that particular day included Roquefort & Baby Greens, House Smoked Salmon, Steak a Cheval and Grilled Seafood Georgette Salad. L’escale offers a lovely Prix Fixe selection for lunch as well. So while the menu may be streamlined, there’s plenty to choose from for all dietary needs and restrictions while keeping true to an authentically French menu.

While I was there I was treated to a truly memorable lunch that began with a most verdant Asparagus Vichyssoise with a lemon crème fraiche and topped with microgreens. This refreshing take on traditional vichyssoise known for its creamy texture, took on an earthy essence with a subtle sweetness which made for a wonderfully vibrant and satisfying dish that was surprisingly light, perfect for a warm summer day.

The tender shoestring asparagus imported from Paris paired with delicate chantarelles was the perfect light start, when you want a little something without ruining your meal. The asparagus were tender, delicate with an unexpected sweetness balanced by the woodsy earthiness of the mushrooms.

Next, the Salad Niçoise. This Mediterranean favorite replaces the traditional canned tuna with tender, thinly sliced seared tuna accompanied by a jammy egg, anchovies, fingerling potatoes, French beans, olives and a mixed leaf salad with a light vinaigrette. While I love this salad in the summertime, this is one of my all-time favorites.

Un petit gout après, Chef offered us little treat – a generous slice of Roquefort on a slice of their toasted bread and topped with a drizzle of honey. A little sweet, a little savory and a perfect palate cleanser. (Chef, please put these on the menu!)

While much of the emphasis at L’escale is on the food, we can’t celebrate 20 years without acknowledging their exceptional wine program. L’escale features 500 selections and over 3000 wines including those under their own label which include L’escale Rosé Brut, Baron Albert, Champagne, France, L’escale Brut, Baron Albert, Champagne, France and Le Rose de L’escale, Cote de Provence 2021.

“L’escale loves wine and food. We have learned over the years that our clientele has spectacular taste and knowledge of wine. As a result our extensive range of wines caters to their discerning palates and expertise.” David Fletcher. L’escale features 500 selections and over 3000 wines including those under their own label which include a Rosé from Provence and a Champagne. 

It really should be of no surprise that under Kieffer’s guidance the DELAMAR Greenwich Harbor Hotel would earn the highly esteemed “Excellent” rating from the New York Times.