Chef Stephen Lewandowski Is Back, Cooking Exceptional Fare at Townhouse in Greenwich

Jessica Ryan
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Nestled into a quiet tree-lined street, Townhouse sits poised to be the darling of the restaurant scene. Located at the site of what was formerly Gabriel’s, only the address remains the same. After having undergone a complete floor to ceiling transformation, the newly renovated interior bears no resemblance of its predecessor. Gone are the dark, dated wood panels that have been replaced by a cool oyster color that pays tribute the building’s historic architectural details.

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The early afternoon sunlight floods the front room illuminating everything in its path. Large, lively abstract paintings add bursts of color that both enhance and juxtapose the traditional details. Overhead large modern, metallic light fixtures float above and vivid blue velvet seating creates a quiet yet bold statement at each white-clothed table. 

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At Townhouse, contemporary meets traditional not only in décor, but in cuisine as well, where color and layers are just as prevalent in each carefully prepared dish. The menu takes simple fare and elevates it to the next level, layering flavors, colors and textures from around the world, delivering dishes that are nothing short of superb.

This should really come as no surprise and one would expect nothing less with the trifecta of excellence at the restaurant’s helm. Chef Stephen Lewandowski (formerly of the Harlan restaurants, Tribeca Grill and Gotham Bar & Grill) has teamed up with longtime friend Drew (Nierport of Tribeca, Nobu & Batard), and Director of Operations Dana Cifone (formerly of Duoro, Starr and One Group) to create an experience of distinction that is multifaceted. 

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We began with the Tuna Tataki where pink and buttery slices of tuna are enveloped in a soy shallot vinaigrette, accompanied by petite greens and met with an unexpected and most welcome and unexpected crunch from the crispy garlic.

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Next the beautifully Seared Sea Scallops whose exterior crackles ever so lightly under the knife yields a most delicate, buttery meat. Served on a bed of caramelized cauliflower, pieces of pancetta, asparagus, shitake mushrooms and a most delicious truffle vinaigrette. The assortment of flavors and textures is like a well-orchestrated melody.

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The Grilled Atlantic Swordfish, meaty and tender, sits on a bed of red wine caponata sauce, faro and basil rice. The mild fish allows the savory and subtly sweet flavors of the caponata to shine while the faro and basil rice offers an impeccable nutty texture to complement the fish and the sauce.

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Earthy, tender and every bit juicy, the Roasted Rack of Lamb is delicate and so perfectly cooked. Nestled on top of a rich, smoky tomato Romesco sauce, with quinoa, Tuscan kale and assorted summer vegetables, this bursting with flavor dish is a show-stopper. 

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If I had to pick a favorite I would have an impossible time, and I am not entirely sure I could, but there was something about the Parisienne Gnocchi that stole a little piece of my heart. Accompanied by assorted summer vegetables – corn, beans and asparagus – flavored with tarragon and pecorino, and filled with ricotta, this simple Italian dish is elevated to a whole new level. An ever so slightly crisp exterior gives way to some of the most cloudlike gnocchi I have ever had. And then to learn that that these tender little bites are gluten free... 

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Wherever you live, Townhouse in Greenwich will be well worth your drive. Plus, Townhouse has AL FRESCO DINING, rain or shine with both a skylit patio as well as an all weather tented garden. They also offer several beautiful indoor private dining spaces.

Townhouse 35 Church Street Greenwich, CT 06830 Tel. (203) 622-4223