“People said to me ‘You want to open a pizza place on Wooster Street? Are you crazy?’, and I said yes.”

I’m talking to Jeshar Zeneli in March of this year. The first hint of buds are on the trees, and no one is yet brave or hearty enough to seat themselves at the outdoor cafe tables, directly across from Libby’s Italian pastries. I’m at the small bar with a glass of red and a ball of mozzarella which tells his life story. It both explains, and justifies, the crazy idea.

The Zeneli brothers – Aleko, Gazmir, Jeshar, and Jetmir – have a history of bold ventures. When the Iron Curtain fell from the borders of their native Albania in 1991 and friends and neighbors were making their way out of the former Soviet Bloc to countries like Greece or Germany, the brothers wisely decided on Naples instead, where they became cheese makers and pizzaiolos. Jeshar was recruited as a consultant in New Haven, teaching a local shop to make Buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, burrata, scamorza, and first got a taste of the local apizza. 

The brothers by then were living in New York, where Gazmir had won a Caputo Cup for his pies at Rossopomodoro at Eataly. They became convinced there was room for classic Neapolitan pizza in New Haven’s dining scene. On August 1st, Zeneli Pizzeria e cucina Napoletana celebrated its five year anniversary.